Everyone enjoys an Indian summer, and for surfers it is especially enticing as September promises the first Autumn swells with an overlap of summer weather, and September 2023 arrived with a smile. The 4th, 5th and 6th saw a very welcome south easterly wind meet a decent North Atlantic swell, making for perfect surf (other activities are available) conditions along the north coast of Cornwall.

Excerpt from a blog post closer to the time, dated 9th September 2023.

After a dreary July and August, in weather and surf, September arrived and turned on.

What did you think was going to happen - the schools went back and on that day the sun shone brightly, swell arrived and the wind dropped off and went around.

With a little bit of juggling I managed to surf, work and get an afternoon on Fistral beach with my camera. So good to to feel the energy when the conditions align, allowing everyone to enjoy it, surfers, swimmers, spectators, visitors...

It was my first outing with my Canon 6D and longer lenses. It felt good and I look forward to some winter swells and storms arriving, so I can spend time along the coast and get some shots of the Atlantic force meeting the Cornish coastline.

*Clean, crisp surf conditions at Fistral Beach.*

*Tucked in at North Fistral, with shoulder hopper just putting the brakes on.*

1) *North Fistral, surfer’s line chosen.*
2) *Beautiful wall with just a few obstacles to negotiate.*

1) *Snapped leash.*
*2) Shoreline reflections.*

*Back at the carpark the day’s sun has left its mark.*

The rest of the month did have waves but the wind got junky again. However, it was possible to thread into some good waves at the right spot at the right time. Luckily, and with fairly recent mental alteration, not everything hinges on surf. So September still had plenty to offer!

Point Break (The Movie)

Excerpt from a blog post, dated 15th September 2023.

One of my birthday presents this year was a couple of tickets to an outdoor presentation of 'Point Break' – the early 90's bank heist/surf film with Keanu Reeves, Patrick Swayze, and of course Gary Busey, who also starred in the unmissable classic coming of age surf movie 'Big Wednesday'.

Although Point Break is a film I have seen numerous times, I was happy for the opportunity to see it again, especially with the novelty of watching it in a field with the Atlantic Ocean as the backdrop. A lot hinged on the weather, and thankfully it couldn't have been any better.

The sun dropping to the horizon created a warm orange sky, which cast a beautiful light over the mellow crowd gathering on blankets and camping chairs. The last slither of sunlight dropped away to change the sky colour from gold to dusk and the movie began.

1) *The film begins.*
*2) Golden happy hour.*
*3) Relaxed.*

*Loyal companions not interested in the film*.

The evening was enjoyable and I would do it again. With good weather and the 1987 cult classic ‘North Shore’ playing, I would arrive early and make a day of it!

Meanwhile, in Newquay

My camera is still with me at all times, but I just haven’t ventured out that much for the sole reason of taking photographs, especially not outside Newquay.

That said, I continue to shoot when out, either walking Edith (our dog), or down to the shop. Often I see things when not specifically looking for a picture, it’s just a matter of having the camera turned on and close to hand.

I maintain the use of my Fujifilm X100F set to 1:1 aspect ratio, as it shakes things up and offers different framing.

Anyway, below are a few shots from around Newquay over the month.

1) *Towan Beach take off*.
2) *Deflated inflatables still smiling!*

1) *Organising tonights activities.*
*2) Last nights drink for two.*

1) *Bucket & spade trade still good*.
2) *Two deck chairs empty, one bellows with onshore breeze.*

1) *Wind in the face.*
2) *Pedalo line up, ready for a day of activity.*

1) *Restaurant shed.*
*2) Carpark guard.*

1:1 Aspect Ratio

4 Colour and 4 black & white photographs, taken with 1:1 aspect ratio on the Fujifilm X100F. They were all shot while walking around the block (one of our walks) with Edith. It strikes me that I have mentioned Edith a couple of times, so here is a photo.

Yes, she is a fantastic distraction! Below are the 1:1 photos.

*Looking east along the railway tracks running through Teignmouth.*

1:1 Sketchbook

In the early July Bulletin, I mentioned a visit to the Krowji Open Studios, were I met the impressive printmaker Fijke Middendorp. Although not quite matching her relentless twenty minutes (at least) each day drawing in her sketchbook, I have enjoyed adding to my own square (1:1) sketchbook.

It seems the blank pages beckon to have faces drawn on them, it has always been this way, or for at least as long as I can remember. I just find the pen moves on its own and the shapes and simple lined expressions take form in front of me.

The process is cathartic and although repetitive, each page delivers something a little different. I’m gravitating to the idea of creating larger, or layered collage pieces using these drawings, allowing them to take on more life then they do when confined to pages in a closed sketchbook.

Plenty of Surfboards

Another month spraying surfboards, thank goodness it has also been a month of surfing surfboards. One of the perks of working in the dust and fumes, is the work revolves around surfing, so the tide determines the work hours.

*Colourful surfboards waiting their turn to be glassed, sanded and surfed.*

Excerpt from a blog post, dated 28th September 2023.

There are a couple of Pyzel Red Tiger surfboards going through the Ocean Magic surfboard factory just now – the model has proven popular this year.

1) *Red Tiger’s stacking up outside glassing room.*
*2) In line, waiting to be sanded.*

As with many Pyzel models, there has been positive feedback for the Red Tiger. There is often a global response to new models, due partly to the outstanding surfing of John John Florence. John Pyzel and JJF talk surfboard design, specifically the Red Tiger, (Reel).

I have sprayed several surfboards with the recognisable red & yellow spray that JJF has on his own boards, but on occasion a custom order requires something different.

*Pyzel Red Tiger with red/grey fade on rails with red pin line*.

Short reel of pin lines being applied on Red Tiger blog post.

Another Pyzel board making its way through the factory this month, was this fluorescent pink/black tiger stripe board.

Excerpt from a blog post, dated 30th September 2023.

This Pyzel custom order made its way through the factory this week. Nothing like fluro pink and tiger stripes to scream 1980's!

The 1980's were bright – well, from a surfboard and surf fashion point of view. Ironically, several other aspects of the 80's were really very bleak. Maybe as a disguise, or the fuck you attitude of surfing at the time, nothing stopped the loud, brash flare of the fluorescent colours being splashed over everything in the surfing world.

So every now and then, someone will want to capture the essence of the decade on their surfboard. A board will come through with bright fluorescent pink, yellow, orange or green, or all of them! Often adorned with flames, paint splats, checks, chevrons, angular shapes or tiger stripes, as was the case this week.

I started spraying surfboards in 1989 so got in on the tail end of the excitement! It often happens that a noticeable period will be followed by another that is distinctly different. As was the case in the early 90's when we saw a trend of clear white boards and black wetsuits.

These things tend to be cyclical – a craze from some time when will reappear slightly tweaked to help it fit in with the now, or for younger people be totally fresh.

Having done lots of surfboard industry cycles, I'm approaching the point of having seen it all! Luckily these retro nuggets arise from time to time, a welcome refreshment in a time when the mass production element of surfboard construction has lessened the idea of each board being 100% original...like no other.

Fluro pink / black tiger stripes – Short reel

Dedicated to Reels Page

I continue to fumble my way around capturing video and editing it in iMovie, to the point of creating a dedicated reels page on my blog.

Leaving with a few shots from Miami

I like to end each bulletin with a few photographs from another time, or even place. Just a little throw back to keep some images alive. Also to revisit the location as best I can through photographs.

This time we’re going back to Miami!