Who’s counting?

It started some time ago in the last century and here I go again, another year of making surfboards.

Lost surfboards are now coming through the Ocean Magic factory and the shapes are looking good, although the sprays are conservative compared to the iconic posca pen work of Drew Brophy, closely associated with Lost. Still, that’s fine with me, at this point of my career of breathing fumes and chewing dust, I’d like to reserve my full creative attention to my own art.

Lost surfboard being glassed

Of course I still enjoy spraying surfboards, but the trend seems to be towards surfboards just being a single colour, maybe a fade, coloured rails or a combination. In time I could see them being like other products were the choice will be from a menu on a website or brochure; yellow, blue, red, etc.

Anyway, I turn up, get the work done and at times get to witness the circus that’s never far from a surfboard factory (worldwide I have found). I wish I had started filming and gathering footage some time way back in the 90’s. By now, even with hours left on the cutting room floor, there would be enough for a ‘fly on the wall’ documentary that would astound most, to the point of it being suspected as a written ‘mockumentary’. Even having seen it myself, there is disbelief.

In an attempt to digest the dysfunction and buffoonery, some of us have developed unproven theories as to how some factories stay in business. Maybe, just as a cathartic exercise I’ll post the odd one occasionally.

Surf check, North Fistral

I think it was a few weeks ago that the non-stop barrage of North Atlantic low pressure systems was mentioned. It still hasn’t stopped, it’s like there is permanent swell, unfortunately usually accompanied by screaming ‘Yellow Alert’ winds. That said there have been corners and tucked away moments to keep the keen fed. And of course there is always an army of punters who will go out regardless of conditions, craft, warnings, wrong equipment, out of their depth…literally.

Warming up at the waters edge

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I’ve been framed!

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Need reminding!